THE QUEULAT HANGING GLACIER ON CARRETERA AUSTRAL NORTE
It has not been long since we left Coyhaique behind heading north along the Carretera Austral, and we already have the feeling of entering the magic of the south that the Route of the Parks of Patagonia offers. To that of the collective imagination that tells us fairy tales. That of the evergreen forest, torrential rains and mighty rivers. Also of eternal ice and fjords. We say goodbye to the Patagonian steppe that characterizes the area surrounding the regional capital shortly before reaching the fork in the road that leads to Puerto Aysén.
Later on we leave behind the small Villa Maniguales (which offers basic services and fuel) and the crossing to Puerto Cisnes. At that point an ascent begins while we surround the Queulat national park in a high sector of Route 7 that is known as Portezuelo, where we later face 33 curves on a downhill slope. We go in search of the most popular hanging snowdrift in Aysén on an unforgettable tour with Aysen Journeys.
Queulat, which means “sound of waterfalls” in Chono language, is approximately four hours by car from Coyhaique until reaching the El Ventisquero access, which is the most visited sector of the park. Once there we parked and went to register at the Conaf office, in a sector where we also found a booth with bathrooms. El Queulat has an area of 154,000 hectares and has three entrances: Ventisquero (where we are), Angostura (12 km north of Puyuhuapi, where the Los Pumas trail begins), and El Portezuelo (entrance to the Enchanted Forest).
HEADING TO THE HANGING GLACIER
Inserting yourself in a nature sanctuary like this one fills you with energy during a North Austral Highway Tour. Arrayanes, cinnamon trees and nalcas abound here. The latter is a huge plant characteristic of our Patagonia and can even reach two meters in diameter. Its stem is edible. We are about to follow the Hanging Glacier trail, which consists of a 3.3 kilometer long route that takes us to a panoramic viewpoint 300 meters high and that places us face to face with the glacier.
The first two kilometers are the hardest, as we face a drop of almost 200 metres. The fact of enjoying the forest, the singing of birds and pristine springs does not make it heavy. Before starting the walk, we equip ourselves with shoes and clothing suitable for the rain, as well as a snack (such as nuts or a sandwich) and sunscreen.
After approximately two hours we arrive at the viewpoint, which is basically a small flat area with a covered resting point. The place gives us impressive views of the Queulat Hanging Glacier, from whose ice two enormous waterfalls emerge that at first glance seem to be about 400 meters high. In between, you can see rocks in a place where there was ice in the past, but which today is a faithful reflection of the impressive retreat of the ice in recent decades. But that is not all. Dozens of waterfalls of glacial origin are also formed from the mountains and feed the Témpanos lagoon that we can see below.
THE OTHER PATHS OF QUEULAT
The national park gives us three alternatives for hiking. The first and easiest is a flat path 400 meters long round trip (inclusive, allows wheelchair entry) through an evergreen forest. At the end of this path, you come to a panoramic viewpoint from which you can see the Hanging Glacier in the distance. This route is for those who have less time for a visit, or who want to take a smooth walk, without setbacks.
The second route on foot is 1.2 km long and leads to the Témpanos lagoon sector, where you can start a boat ride that leads to the very foot of the Queulat Hanging Glacier. The third, meanwhile, is a small circuit of 350 meters called El Aluvión, and it is also very easy to walk. Whatever the option, the experience in Queulat together with Aysen Journeys will take your breath away before continuing on to the town of Puyuhuapi, on the Carretera Austral Norte.
Do you want to organize your next trip with Aysen Journeys and include a visit to the Queulat Hanging Glacier? Write to us at [email protected]
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